'Each year, as the Christmas collections emerge, I compile a mental wishlist, if only for my own amusement'

No one buys me beauty presents, assuming, understandably, that gifting me a lipstick would be like buying a film critic a cinema pass. But each year, as the Christmas collections emerge, I still compile a mental wish list, if only for my own amusement. Top of this year's is Japonesque. I've been using their professional tools for 20 years (they also secretly manufacture brushes for some of the best luxury brands, such as Tom Ford, though you didn't hear it from me), and now they're selling makeup exclusively at John Lewis (from £12). The unique packaging is beautiful, and the eye shadows are superb. Equally flattering are makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury's eye quads, perfectly compiled at £38.

No Christmas is complete without new scent, and currently nothing compares to Frederic Malle's L'Eau d'Hiver, the most elegant (and, at £130, prohibitively expensive) perfume I've found. I unfailingly want a Diptyque Baies candle (£40) and Laura Mercier Crème de Pistache Honey Bath (£31). Finally, I'd like APC for Aesop'sPost-Poo Drops (£20) for my bathroom, in the hope that my sons will be kind enough to use them. These look stylish, smell great and make me smile, as all beauty products should.

Sali loves… extreme weather skincare

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Mains, £5.75
This new version of the already brilliant Cicaplast is for seriously chapped hands. It's non-greasy and invisible, allowing you to get on with things while it does its work.

Aveda Intensive Hydrating Masque, £28.50
This has been my saviour for 15 winters in a row. An oil-free mask that properly moisturises every skin type without risk of breakouts. Leaves skin feeling so much better.

Seven Seas Pure Cod Liver Oil Plus Evening Primrose Oil, £3.90
I'm a nana about cod liver oil for dry winter skin. It really, really helps. I like these because they're easy to swallow and they contain evening primrose, which I find beneficial to skin.

Sali Hughes shares some of her favourite ideas for beauty products that would make great presents this Christmas

'The best course is to bypass "gifts" and choose great grooming products that could become the recipient's friend for life'

Too many grooming gifts are aimed at a man I've never met in my life. For example, all that faux-traditional shaving garb (razor and brush styled to look Victorian, with ye olde English font and pretendy ivory) is really annoying and outrageously expensive. See also: fragrance houses that take cliché "male" labels (Porsche, James Bond, Pirelli and the like) and lazily plaster them on to a generic aftershave, like something created for a branding task on The Apprentice. Neither is as far from a joke willy-grooming kit than they'd like to imagine.

The best course is to bypass "gifts" altogether and just choose great everyday grooming products that could become the recipient's friend for life. Tom Ford's new range (pictured, from £20) is a banker for any serious grooming obsessive, while the men's offerings from Clarins and Elemis are so good they'll please anyone with a Y chromosome. A barbershop shave appointment (complete with hot towels and cut-throat razor) is a reliable hit, as are Chanel fragrances (I also like Old Spice, I feel no shame). And something efficacious to the point of grotesque is always good, such as Footner Exfoliating Socks (£14.99). My partner saw me in mine and has lusted after them ever since.

Sali loves… primers that work

Laura Mercier Foundation Primer Radiance,£28, selfridges.com
Makes me look so much better, I often wear it on its own on makeup-free days. Gives my complexion a boost and makes makeup application a pleasure.

Illamasqua Hydra Veil, £27, illamasqua.com
A versatile primer that's great on all skin types, even oily ones. Cools, smooths and evens out texture, and keeps everything locked down.

Clinique Superprimer £20, clinique.co.uk
A clever primer to correct any dullness and ashiness commonly caused by foundation on Asian and African-Caribbean skins. Oil-free, too.

'If your budget is small, it's often best to buy one tiny luxury item'

Yes, those are my nails dressed like Noel Edmonds, and I make no apologies. They're Elegant Touch falsies in fetching Reindeer (£7.10), and they make me smile, as all good stocking fillers should. If your budget is small, it's often best to buy one tiny luxury item, such as a single vial of bath oil from Aromatherapy Associates (£10). Or you could go off-piste with something frivolous and kitsch, such as these. On this tip is Vaseline's limited-edition Paint The Town red lip tint(£3.49). I've been wearing it smudged over sharp red lip liner to give a bright, festive mouth, and someone always asks what it is. The tin is lovely, too.

Almost as iconic is Dr Bronner's liquid soap. I love this product (which can be used on babies, adults, clothes, even makeup brushes) and the three-pack makes a lovely and satisfying stocking filler for only £7. Models Own is one of my favourite budget brands and its £10 neon five-piece brush set is one of the best cheap gifts around.

Finally, the Paul & Joe kitten makeup bagand lovely, softening face wash from Asos is a fun gift, and a steal at £13.50. I'd be tempted to snaffle the bag for myself.

Low-risk perfume gifts

Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne,£39, jomalone.co.uk
A sharp, citrussy unisex scent that seems to suit everyone without smelling generic and unimaginative. Elegant and always appropriate.

Clarins Eau Dynamisante, £30, clarins.co.uk
It's almost impossible not to like this bright, feel-good scent in a generous refillable bottle. Spritz on men, women, clothes, sheets for a fresh feel.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, £48, selfridges.com
I prefer its big sister, Coco, but Mademoiselle seems to be more universally adored. I rarely meet a woman who doesn't like it.

One whiff of these and you're guaranteed to come over all festive

I'm a bit potty about smells, but never more so than at Christmas. Thirty eight years of festive memories are unlocked instantly at the merest whiff of Baileys, spitting roasties, spiced orange wafting from a pan of mulled wine, warm dust on fairylights, the faint gunpowdery smell of a pulled cracker and pungent green pine…

If Christmas spirit is thus far eluding you, Crabtree & Evelyn's Noel home fragrance (£9) is a sort of bottled version, to sprinkle on to candles, or drop into a saucer of water and shove on the radiator for a delicious, ambient fug.

For extra punch, buy a lovely Christmas candle. Melt & Co's Noel (from £7.95), Jo Malone's Pine & Eucalyptus (£39.50), Rituals' Sacred Fire (£19.50), Laura Mercier's Roasted Chesnuts (pictured, £29) all hit the spot and, while expensive, need to be lit for no more than about 45 minutes to fragrance a normal house for a whole day (for glow, light cheap tealights).

This practice – along with putting them in the freezer the night before first using – means they last for ages. I'm on my second December with last year's pine tree Diptyque, which I put away just after new year, still half full. And £45 for 62 days' festive cheer seems decent, if a little decadent.

Beauty gifts for teachers

End of term tokens from parent to teacher.

Mandara Spa Softening Milk Bath, £9, timetospa.co.uk
Mandara makes the loveliest affordable bath products around. This smells and feels like a much more expensive treat.

Body Shop Shea Softening Set, £7, thebodyshop.co.uk
Body Butter, 21 this year, is probably my favourite Body Shop product. This is a lovely unisex duo of lip and body creams to soften all skin types.

Cowshed Knackered Cow Gift Set, £16, cowshedonline.com
These bath and body formulas are natural-smelling, luxurious, relaxing and unisex; they look great, too.

Fashion chain beauty ranges are extremely hit and miss, but here are some you can trust

Fashion chain beauty ranges are extremely hit and miss. Miss Selfridge nailed makeup in the 80s, then lost its way, Gap launched some really influential perfumes in the 90s (I should know, I sold gallons of them to customers), and after some false starts Topshop makeup is now consistently fantastic. But overall, pickings are slim on the high street.

It often feels as though someone in head office has decided makeup will drive up unit sales and unthinkingly orders in a load of generic crap disguised with branding. Which is why I find & Other Stories so remarkable. This newish clothes chain (H&M's cooler sister) sells extremely good own-brand products that would be perfectly at home in a department store beauty hall. Their tinted lipbalms look and feel posh but cost a fiver. The shadows (£7) come in a prism of easy, flattering shades for all colourings, and the blushers (£10) are embossed with Shakespearean quotes (a bit pretentious, yes, but they're excellent).

The skincare is smart too. The facial moisturisers (pictured here in Tulle, £15) come in three levels of richness, from oily/combination to normal to dry. All do the job very nicely, without stickiness or greasiness. Foundation apart, everything is impressive, and available at stories.com/beauty.

Glow givers

Liz Earle Brightening Treatment Mask, £5.50, lizearle.com
Slather over a clean face and leave for two minutes. Wipe off with a hot flannel. Moisturise. You will look better.

Bourjois Cream Blush in Healthy Glow, £7.99, superdrug.com
This new formulation of the iconic Little Round Pot cheek colour is Bourjois's best product in years. Easy to apply, lasts well and looks perky and healthy on almost every skin shade.

Urban Decay Naked Skin Pressed Finishing Powder, £22, beautybay.com
Brush this over your foundation (ignore the sponge) before applying colour. It gives a very soft, slightly pearlescent glow.

'The biggest problem lies in China, a huge market where animal testing is not only legal, it's mandatory'

I'm frequently asked for recommendations for products not tested on animals. Since last March, I've been very happy to tell people that the use of animals to test cosmetics or their ingredients is banned in the UK and in all other member states of the EU. It's also now illegal to sell cosmetics within the EU that have been, or that contain ingredients, tested on animals since the ban. This is obviously brilliant news, but it's only half the story.

The biggest problem lies in China, a huge market where animal testing is not only legal, it's mandatory. Brands wanting to sell there must first test on animals in order to make it to the shelf. This is clearly appalling, but I've long had mixed feelings about the argument that any ethical brand should immediately pull out. Huge beauty corporations, being obsessed with profit and PR, if not a genuine concern for animal welfare, do have great lobbying power, as do charities. To become disinterested would, in some ways, not further the cause. And one encouraging sign that the brands choosing to remain in the Chinese market has paid off, is last month's news that China is considering abolishing the law from next June. So 2014 may be a happier new year for animals and consumers.

Sali loves: gentle kids' shampoos

DGJ Organics Wild 'n' Crazy Kids Shampoo in banana and berry,£3.19, ocado.com
The shampoo my kids reach for first. Smells delicious and works so well that I wash my own fringe in it daily. Cleans thoroughly without tears. Great on afro hair, too.

Avon Naturals Kids Amazing Apple Shampoo & Conditioner, £2.50, avonshop.co.uk
Brilliant value shampoo that's perfect for little girls with long, tangle-prone hair. Cleans well and makes light work of brushing.

Paul Mitchell Kids Baby Don't Cry Shampoo,£3.83, bodycare2000.com
A soothing, chamomile-rich shampoo that doubles as a skin-friendly bodywash. Also great for adults with sensitive scalps and skin.

'These will be a godsend to the many women who believe themselves to be rubbish at applying makeup'

Every week, I receive dozens of soon-to-be-released beauty products and, while I'll never become bored or jaded, it's very rare that I spot something I can truthfully call new. But Mac's Masterclass brushes (from £22.50) can certainly lay claim to innovation and will be a godsend to the many women who believe themselves to be rubbish at applying makeup.

Unlike traditional cosmetic brushes, their heads are at a right angle, like a toothbrush, not facing forward like a pen nib, and on a slanted handle. This is crucial because it means that neither your hand, nor the brush, is waving in front of your eyes while you're working, allowing the less instinctively competent to see exactly what they're doing (so simple, so unfathomably undiscovered until now). Uniquely, this also allows glasses wearers to keep their specs on while they poke the handle through the gap and on to the lids. (I've tried this. It works.) There are only three sizes being launched – two for eyes, one for cheek and face – but that's enough to get the hang of them before the next wave. At time of writing, the only release date I have is "January 2014". But I know if I wait any longer, they'll be all sold out. Happy new year.

Sali loves… other bright ideas

Smashbox Always Sharp Waterproof Kohl Liners, £16, smashbox.co.uk
Sophisticated, densely pigmented and blendable pencils that lightly sharpen every time you remove their lid. So simple, so bloody useful. New colours out this month.

B Vibrant Lip & Cheek Colour (out 22 January), superdrug.com
Lovely, moist pop of lip and cheek colour (five shades in all) in one affordable, twist-up crayon. It's the lightest I've ever travelled.

Fairydrops Mascara, £18.50, thisisbeautymart.com
A mascara with a weird, bobbly wand that actually succeeds in curling lashes where no others in my experience do.

'It's a damning indictment of my nerdish personality that when a skin emergency occurs, I'm positively delighted to have the chance to fix it'

I have recently experienced skin irritation on my face for the first time in years. One morning, my face began to itch, down the sides of my nose and around my jawline. The slightest scratch made the itchiness erupt into a hot, red blotch that refused to back down, however much concealer I piled on.

It's a damning indictment of my nerdish personality that when a skin emergency occurs, I'm positively delighted to have the chance to fix it. I'm intolerant of antihistamines, so I first took off all my makeup with Aurelia Miracle Cleanser (£34), a lovely, concentrated, extremely gentle organic cleanser that smells not very nice but works very well. (Cetaphil, £7.79, is also marvellous, though you'll need to cleanse twice if wearing foundation.) I followed with something I've kept for such emergencies for the past 25 years: Clarins Sensitive Skin Beauty Repair Concentrate (£40). I can't tell you how reassuring it is to know a product does exactly as it has promised, for decades on end. Within hours of massaging in a few drops, the itching had stopped and the redness had vanished. I kept it up for the next fortnight, following with Avène Tolérance Extrême Cream(£14.50) as moisturiser. It's like the whole thing never happened.

Sali loves… nude palettes

Smashbox Full Exposure, £36, smashbox.co.uk
This new bumper palette features 14 universally flattering shades to be worn as shadow or liner, separately or layered for depth. Top-quality double-ended brush, too.

Sleek I Divine Eye Shadow Au Naturel, £7.99, superdrug.com
No one does blush and eyeshadows quite as well for the price. These 12 highly pigmented, quality nude shadows come in at a little over 65p each. Fantastic.

Urban Decay Naked 3, £37, debenhams.com
Essential industry kit. This features 12 nudes with a slight rosy tinge; they're especially gorgeous on olive, brown and black skins.

'More universally flattering than Colour Of The Year Radiant Orchid is pink as a whole, which dominates spring's collections'

My inbox contains two dozen emails from beauty brands kindly letting me know of new makeup products based on Radiant Orchid, officially named Colour Of The Year by global standardised colour authority Pantone (of deeply satisfying felt tip, or slightly pretentious middle-class coffee mug, fame). A reasonable beauty publicity op if the winner looks good on skin, but less so when – as in this case – we're talking about a medicinal pinky-lilac that flatters no human I've met. Radiant Orchid, while lovely in some applications, I'm sure, should be confined to the nails of someone with freakishly perfect hands.

More universally flattering is pink as a whole, which dominates spring's collections. Nars, known for bold, edgy shades, has gone completely pink with its gorgeous Final Cut collection– four new shades in its perfect powder blusher range, and four lip crayons. For its spring collection, Givenchy has made a beautiful Prismissime palette (£44.50, pictured, out next week), of 12 lip and cheek cremes in universally flattering shades of pink, from pale to hot. Or try Sleek's wonderful lip palettes in Showgirl(bright) or Ballet (muted): both are £8.99 and seriously good.

Sali loves: moisturisers for oily, spotty skin

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo, £13.50, escentual.com
I've seen truly wonderful results with this on testers with spots, blackheads, even acne. An effective, affordable moisturiser and redness-reducer that doesn't dry out the skin.

Bioderma Sébium Global, £9.80, escentual.com
A fantastic lotion for the price – or any price. This is moisturising enough for those with dry patches, but deals with problem oiliness kindly and effectively.

Decléor Aromessence Ylang Ylang Super Serum,£44, decleor.co.uk
They've renamed this a serum, but it's actually an oil. Don't be scared: it's a high-quality blend of plant oils that works brilliantly at balancing out excessive oiliness. Trust me, it works.

'Calyx is a very special perfume I've never stopped loving'

When I heard that Calyx by Prescriptives – a fantastic brand withdrawn from UK stores in 2009 – was returning to the mass market under the patronage of sister company Clinique, I was delighted. Calyx (from £46) is a very special perfume I've never stopped loving (my own bottle has been rationed carefully), but what is especially lovely about its rebirth this month is how at home Calyx is at Clinique, like a beautiful pedigree dog that is taken in by its dream owner after years of languishing in kennels. I've always admired Clinique's habit of introducing into an incredibly populist brand perfumes that are bold, unique and, frankly, a bit odd. With the exception of Happy (meh), all Clinique scents are complex, original, even ground-breaking. Calyx is the perfect addition. It's a precise, melony, rosy, citrussy, unconventional smell that never wanders into "posh Fairy Liquid" territory. It is exact, sophisticated, elegant and timeless, and can be worn night or day by women of any age. Now I'd just like Clinique to bring back its own lost and wonderful scent, Wrappings. Then the family reunion – adoptees, estranged runaways and all – can be enjoyed to the full.

Sali loves… new year finds

T3 SinglePass Flat Iron Straighteners, £125, cultbeauty.co.uk
I kept hearing rave reviews when I was in the US, and couldn't wait to try these. They're super-fast, gentle, non-drying and keep my hair looking silky, swooshy and just-blowdried all day.

Bobbi Brown Brightening Finishing Powder in Bronze Glow, £40, bobbibrown.co.uk
A bronzy, summery version of the wonderful classic Brightening Powder. Sweep over cheekbones and temples to give olive, brown and black skins a healthy, bright glow.

Vichy Normaderm Hyaluspot Cream, £7.87, Boots
Post-Christmas gluttony spots gave me a reason to try this. And it's excellent. Gentle, non-flaking and effective, even on deep spots. Apply overnight on oily and normal skins, but avoid if dry.

'I've been pondering bargain hair products, stylers so good they could be poured into a posh bottle and sold at top whack'

During some recent filming I worked with leading session hair stylist Ben Talbott. I asked for a full, voluminous blow-dry (in the hands of a professional, I can't resist – the bigger the better) and so, from his kitbag rammed with expensive designer hair care, he pulled out Boots Essential Mousse. When a top stylist with access to unlimited loot chooses a £1.05 product, I want to know why. "It never flakes," Ben told me. "It can be built up without stickiness. It holds style better than any other mousse. It's the best." I could barely wait to wrap up filming so I could nip into Boots.

He was right. I apply this to damp hair after washing to get fast body and hold without stick or static. It made me ponder other bargain hair products I love, stylers that are so good they could be poured into a posh bottle and sold at top whack. Batiste dry shampoo (£2.99), of course. Elnett hairspray (£3.99), too. But also Dove Pure Care Dry Oil (£9.99 for a six- to 12-month helping), a silky textured, softening and defrizzing oil my thicker-haired girlfriends adore. Another marvel is Touch of Silver shampoo (£2.09), which brightens grey and silver hair and gives chic, Hitchcock heroine coolness to bleached blondes.

Sali loves… beautiful packaging

M&S Holly Sharpe for Limited Collection, from £5, marksandspencer.com
A capsule range from Limited Collection's excellent beauty offering, repackaged by fashion illustrator Holly Clarke. The makeup bags and perfume are especially stunning.

Paul & Joe Lipstick Cases, £7 (refills £14), asos.com
No one does prettier packaging than Paul & Joe. This spring's collection includes horse-print lipstick tubes and bird-adorned face powder pearls. Beautiful.

L'Occitane Ultra Soft Cream, £18, loccitane.co.uk (out 15 February)
If bold and punchy is more you than twee and girlie, you'll love these bright and beautiful tins of top-quality, shea-rich body moisturiser. Choose from vanilla, rose and lime. A perfect gift.

'This is the best lipstick vintage in years'

There was a time when lipstick went one of two ways: moist and comfy on the lips but sheer and somewhat apologetic-looking; or dense, rich colour with a drying texture that had to be dragged kicking and screaming across the mouth. This is the dilemma the beauty industry seems to have been busying itself with solving for the past year or so, the fruits of which are suddenly hitting counters.

My new favourite, Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick (£24), by Estée Lauder, nails it. Rich, opaque shades (I'm wearing Intense Nude here, there and everywhere) that saturate the lips with both moisture and colour, staying there for ages, looking great and feeling as softening as a balm. The packaging is heavy, smart and satisfyingly clicky, too. On the same tip are MAC Huggable Lipcolour (shiny; £17.50) and Too Faced La Crème (satiny; £18), both of which offer similar boldness of pigment and all-day creaminess.

The high street has also raised its game. I adore NYX's Xtreme Lip Cream and Topshop's Lip Cream (both £7). Each comes in a gloss-like wand applicator, but combines as much semi-matte colour as a trad lipstick with the softness of a much lighter formula. All make for the best lipstick vintage in years.

Sali loves: new cream blush

Clinique Cheek Pops,£16.60
Four extremely easy-to-wear gerbera-shaped blushers that look great and last well on all colourings. Anyone can apply these properly.

Clarins Multi-blush,£18
The colours here are stunning. Rosewood is one of the most beautiful nudes against dark skins. Grenadine gives all tones a bright flush that I love.

Tory Burch Lip & Cheek Tint in Cat's Meow, £27.50
A pricey but large pot of lip and cheek creme in a universally flattering shade of perky pink. The perfect low-maintenance tool for looking much better at lightning speed.

From the no makeup look all the way to orange lips, here's how to get the new season's looks

The no makeup look

Where Giles, Balmain, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang.

Why Last year was huge for foundation and primer technology. The new face makeup products make clear skin look barely touched by artifice.

How A solid skincare routine of twice-daily cleansing (with cream, balm, oil or milk), exfoliating (with a face cloth or AHA and BHA toners), treating (with serum) and moisturising (with oil, lotion or cream) is the starting point. To help things along, apply a small blob of light-reflecting primer and leave for a few moments to set. Blend on a sheer foundation, tapping concealer over any blemishes still showing through. Stroke a subtle bronzer along the cheekbones for depth and contour.

With The beauty industry is going mad for Dior's new Dreamskin (£67.15), while makeup artists love Mac's Prep + Prime Fortified Skin Enhancer (£23) to correct uneven complexions. Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow primer (£38.50) is fabulous, and NYC's Cosmetics Primer is seriously good for £3.49. For foundation and concealer, try Nars Sheer Glow Foundation and Radiant Creamy Concealer (shades from pale to dark). I also love Clarins' new Instant Concealer (£20).

Orange lips

Where Creatures of the Wind, Desigual, MSGM, DSquared, Rag & Bone, Prabal Gurung.

Why Orange lipstick gives the same face-brightening boldness as red, but feels more summery and cool. It allows you not to bother with complex eyeshadow looks – just one bright lipstick does the whole job.

How Start with matte, powdered lips. Take a soft, sharp orange lip pencil and stand your elbow on a table top. Trace around the natural shape of your lips, starting in the upper lip's V and working outwards. Use a flat, sharp-edged lip brush to fill in with lip colour. Matte, satin and gloss are all fine, but avoid frost and shimmer.

With Every backstage makeup artist seemed to choose Mac's Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in What A Blast! (£14.50) to line the mouth before filling with orange. At Rag & Bone, Gucci Westman used Revlon's new ColorBurst Matte Balm in Mischievous (£7.99), while Charlotte Tilbury chose Mac's Morange lipstick at Prabal Gurung. I also love Bourjois's Rouge Edition Lipstick in Orange Pop Up (£8), but if bright orange seems too scary, try an orange-based tomato or coral red. My favourites are Mac Lady Danger and Tom Ford's Firecracker.

Matte nails

Where Mischka, Costello Tagliapietra, Victoria Beckham and Proenza Schouler, Sophia Webster, Antonio Berardi.

Why Next to this season's clean cuts and simpler fabrics, glossy talons seem too try-hard. Matte-finish nails provide the perfect accompaniment.

How Choose either a matte shade or a classic gloss polish finished with matte topcoat. At Sophia Webster, matte silver looked gorgeous on all colourings. The pale buff mattes seen at Proenza Schouler and Victoria Beckham look best on dark skins or young pale ones. For a classic look, try matte Revlon Red à la Antonio Berardi. Stroke on two to three layers, and finish with a matte topcoat. The very dexterous can try a "textured French", seen at Nicholas K. After finishing your matte nails, stroke high-gloss topcoat across the tips only, for a modern, two-textured take on the dreaded French manicure.

WithBarry M's Matte Nail Paints (£3.99) come in great, hand-flattering colours and go on well, to leave a smooth, matte finish. Cheeky's Matt Demon Chat Me Up (£7) or Nails Inc Westminster Bridge Top Coat (£12) both go clearly over any polish, to leave a matte surface.

Casual centre parting

Where Osman, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, JW Anderson, Whistles, Zoe Jordan, Blumarine.

Why Who can actually be bothered with complex hair styling in summer, when British weather swings from humid to dry to soaking wet? The centre parting is the perfect low-maintenance solution.

How After washing, comb hair upside down to bulk up naturally, then flip it back, parting at the centre. Apply a tiny amount of hair oil to the lengths, raking through with your fingers. Leave to dry naturally, or rough-dry with a hairdryer. The idea is not to be super-straight or perfectly curly, but carefree and undone.

WithKent 9T comb (£4.49) is a great tool for the job. Kérastase Elixir Ultime (£27.60) and Percy & Reed No Oil Oil (£14) both give a soft, healthy finish without dragging hair flat.

'These bases are said to act as a hybrid between makeup and skincare, perfecting the superficial while improving what lies beneath'

After the spring/summer 2014 catwalk shows, journalists were left with a pretty short list of beauty trends to report on. With little colour and few new techniques, the simultaneously overwhelming and underwhelming theme was: skin. Sometimes trends come from fashion, art, celebrity, street, but occasionally they're born purely from new technology. I'd argue that this season, the focus on creating flawless, healthy-looking complexions relates directly to new treatment foundation launches from the big beauty/fashion houses.

These bases – often containing sound anti-ageing ingredients – are said to act as a hybrid between makeup and skincare, perfecting the superficial while improving what lies beneath. Some, such as Dior's Capture Totale (£62) and By Terry's Terrybly Densiliss (£75 – yes, I know), deliver extremely well on the former, but I struggle to see how any long-term benefits can be imparted unless you wear foundation every day, as you would a moisturiser. So there's a reassuring honesty about Lancôme Miracle Air de Teint (£29.50), whose claims are at surface level: it promises to make complexions look good, and delivers. Skin feels decidedly bare, while looking much better than before. Until you take it off.

Sali loves… nude lips

Max FactorColour Elixir Gloss Nude Pomade, £7.99
I like lipgloss only in natural shades – brights seem too jammy. This new collection of four nude glosses from makeup artist Caroline Barnes is wearable, grown-up and subtle. Lustrous Sand is my favourite.

Tory Burch Lip Colour in Pas du Tout, £22
I like that this lipstick comes in just one shade, which seems to look good on everyone. A brownish pink with a sheer, slightly shiny finish, for all occasions.

Urban Decay Naked Ultra Nourishing Lipgloss, £14
Nine well-designed shades, from peach to bright pink, all with a creamy, dusky, natural finish. They soften, last well, and the packaging is a huge improvement on the previous incarnation.

'Some beauty looks get an Academy nod every year, like dark, arched Hollywood brows'

Since my love of film matches my passion for beauty, the Oscars are not to be missed. I binge on sweets and caffeine and stay up to watch the whole interminable shebang, trying to guess simultaneously which nominee will triumph and which nail polish they're wearing.

Some beauty looks get an Academy nod every year, like dark, arched Hollywood brows. Sleek's newBrow Stylist (£5.99), is the ideal tool. There's a wand to groom brows into place, and a strong but natural-looking slanted crayon at the other end. I'm hooked.

Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, who's rumoured to be in LA to make up Penelope Cruz and Naomi Watts, is bound to use her Film Star Bronze & Glow powder duo (£49, but huge), which I'm using here. The idea is to brush the matte brown into the hollows of your cheeks (suck in) and around the jaw and temples, then trace the shimmery champagne shade on to cheekbones, brow bone and bare limbs for silver screen starlet glow.

As for lips, shades come and go, but for me the most iconic event deserves lips to match. As previous Oscar winner Gwyneth Paltrow once said, "Beauty, to me, is about being comfortable in your own skin. That, or a kick-ass red lipstick."

Sali loves… new spot treatments

Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel, £14, boots.com
A heavy-duty salicylic acid spot gel that can be applied all over before oil-free moisturiser. Prevents breakouts and effectively treats existing spots.

The Body Shop Tea Tree Cool & Creamy Wash, £5
I'm a big believer in natural antiseptic tea tree for treating spotty skin without stripping it dry. This lovely new cleanser combines it with reliably spot-busting salicylic and natural humectant glycerin.

Clayspray Mattifying Red Clay Masque, £15
Weirdly satisfying spray-on mask that absorbs oil and grease without drying out skin. The face feels soft and comfortable afterwards.

'I noticed a distinct difference after one wash, an even greater one after three to four'

I am given the hard sell on so many ludicrous-sounding ingredients (hear "Boswelox" and try to keep a straight face – I still can't a decade later) that I'm almost disappointed if they turn out actually to work.

L'Oréal Elvive Fibrology shampoo, conditioner (£2.99 each) and serum (£6.99) contain "Filloxane". The blurb is that this patented ingredient expands each hair cumulatively, by forming bonds with proteins in the hair shaft. It sounds like hokum, but is in fact the same technology that's used by windscreen repairers when they inject gel into glass cracks to fill them.

My experience is that Fibrology certainly does make fine hair appear thicker. I noticed a distinct difference after one wash, an even greater one after three to four. It really, truly works.

If I have any negative feedback, it's that Fibrology doesn't leave my hair quite as soft and shiny as others. But on reflection, I think that may be of benefit, because anyone with fine hair will know that softness reads floppiness and that often makes matters worse, causing hair to fall flat before you've even put on your coat. It's also no good for the naturally curly, because it contains sulfates. But for the fine and thinning, it's my buy of the year so far.

Sali loves… more hair innovations

Bumble and bumble City Swept Finish, £21.50, Boots branches; bumbleandbumble.co.uk from 24 March
A hairspray that does that separating, casual, piecey thing that stops hair looking like an anchorwoman's, but without veering into scruffy, teenage grunge. I adore it.

Percy & Reed Wonder Balm, £18
Acts as a primer for any other hair products, creating a perfect base for styling, and making results last longer. Also stops hair becoming stringy. Marvellous stuff.

Ojon Rare Blend Moisture-Rich Conditioning Cleanser, £18.50 (out 20 March); ojon.co.uk (online exclusive)
A clever idea, especially for African-Caribbean and other thick hair types: a conditioner that lightly cleanses away surface grease, smell and dust without shampooing.

'No cod science, no pretence of lasting change, just solid problem-solving for when one's face looks like an old slipper'

I am not keen on any product name containing the word "miracle", so I feel a bit grubby about the fact that Olay's (already a bit iffy-sounding) Wrinkle Relaxing Complex has been reborn as 10 Minute Miracle (£29.99). Still, I'm glad of the chance to reacquaint you with this marvellous primer, a favourite among industry insiders.

What 10 Minute M**acle does is much what a silk stocking stretched over a Box Brownie camera did way back when: it blurs and smooths everything temporarily. You stroke one pump over your moisturiser and leave for 10 minutes before applying makeup (the time delay is well worth it, but it does make the serum more practical for a special night out than for an 8am meeting). Foundation goes on smoothly, skin seems more even, fine lines and pores look noticeably filled in.

The names notwithstanding, I like the honesty of quick-fix products. No cod science, no pretence of lasting change, just solid problem-solving for when one's face looks like an old slipper. My newer love is Dior's brilliant Glow Maximiser Primer (£28.50), applied in the same way. It's like holding up a candle to my grey, post-winter face and feels as close to perfect as any primer could.

Sali loves… hair chalks

L'Oréal Professionel Hairchalk,£15
The applicator means you can be precise, allowing you easily to create streaks and stripes in shades from bright to modest (there are coffee, black and bronze options). Lasts very well – it takes two washes to get back to square one.

Kevin Murphy Colour Bugs, £14
Not for the shy and retiring, but brilliant fun for the bold. Super-vivid, temporary colour that simply wipes on like makeup, then washes out in the shower.

Bumble and bumble Spray Chalk, £15
Surprisingly subtle shades to give hair a sheer, pretty, pastel-toned tint. Easy to apply and a cinch to remove: just brush vigorously.

'Before I knew it, cleansing powders were the hottest Asian import since BB creams. Only better'

I tried Sensai's Silky Peeling Powder because I'm fascinated by Japanese skincare rituals, albeit as a spectator sport (the chances of my adopting a 12-step cleansing regime before bed are slim to none). But I was surprised to find the powder still at my basin, stocks depleting, a month later. Twice a week, I rub it into wet hands to form a smooth exfoliating paste (beware anything with scratchy granules) that works its magic in about a minute, then rinses away easily. It works brilliantly well and, unlike many exfoliants, leaves my skin calm, silky and soft. It's fantastic and, though expensive at £50, there is no wasteful gunk: you just turn the bottle upside down once to get a perfect dose of fresh powder.

By coincidence, just as I was raving about my genius discovery, Givenchy released the fantastic One-Minute Glow Powder (£26.55), as part of my beloved Hydra Sparkling range; Diptyque launched its first facial skincare line with Radiance Boosting Powder (£38) at centre stage; and great Japanese brand DHC saw a big upturn in interest in its Washing Powder (£8).

Before I knew it, cleansing powders were the hottest Asian import since BB creams. Only better.

Sali loves: great spring nail buys

Illamasqua nail polish in Throb,£14.50, illamasqua.com
This classic blood red is utter perfection. It goes on smoothly and densely – one coat is the same as two from inferior brands – and lasts well. Illamasqua is fast becoming the fashion nail brand to beat.

Elegant Touch Express Nails in Trend Empty Heart, £8.99, boots.com
I wore these throughout fashion week and people mistook them for a very expensive hipster manicure. They stick on in seconds and stay there (they can be used over and over), looking cute but not twee.

Nails Inc Kensington Caviar Gel Effect Top Coat, £14.16 for two, qvcuk.com
You know that plump, glossy finish given by gel treatments such as Gelish and Shellac? This topcoat gives the same visual effect on regular polish. It's hard-wearing, too.

• Join Sali on Mondays at theguardian.com/fashion.

No one buys me beauty presents, assuming, understandably, that gifting me a lipstick would be like buying a film critic a cinema pass. But each year, as the Christmas collections emerge, I still compile a mental wish list, if only for my own amusement. Top of this year's is Japonesque. I've been using their professional tools for 20 years (they also secretly manufacture brushes for some of the best luxury brands, such as Tom Ford, though you didn't hear it from me), and now they're selling makeup exclusively at John Lewis (from £12). The unique packaging is beautiful, and the eye shadows are superb. Equally flattering are makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury's eye quads, perfectly compiled at £38.

No Christmas is complete without new scent, and currently nothing compares to Frederic Malle's L'Eau d'Hiver, the most elegant (and, at £130, prohibitively expensive) perfume I've found. I unfailingly want a Diptyque Baies candle (£40) and Laura Mercier Crème de Pistache Honey Bath (£31). Finally, I'd like APC for Aesop'sPost-Poo Drops (£20) for my bathroom, in the hope that my sons will be kind enough to use them. These look stylish, smell great and make me smile, as all beauty products should.