'It's the ideal lone fragrance for when you'd rather not announce your presence at 50 paces'
I write this in the very happy belief that eau de Cologne is back. Not that it ever left my dressing table. A very light, citrus and crisp fragrance style, which always reminds me of my great-aunt's ironing pile via French hotels, cologne is a beauty classic that every man and woman should own. Its fresh, fleeting and alcoholic formula makes it the perfect transitional scent for late summer, when heavy winter perfumes are too cloying and we've yet to see whether we'll get an autumn at all.
But cologne isn't confined to one season. Year round, it acts as a wonderful first layer over which to spray a stronger, longer-lasting perfume: the epsilon to an alpha scent such as, say, YSL's Opium.
It is also the ideal lone fragrance for when you'd rather not announce your presence at 50 paces or appear to be trying too hard. It's extremely uplifting stuff, unpretentious and familiar.
I've no time for people who sneer at cologne (it's cheaper than pure perfume, allowing lazy snobs to dismiss it as an inferior product), and I'm buoyed by the emergence of cool new brands such as Atelier Cologne, which seem set on reviving the market. Here are my favourites.
Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Absolue, £80, selfridges.com
Like an orange grove after a downpour. A spritz on a long, drowsy afternoon is a game-changer.
Chanel Exclusifs Eau de Cologne,£120, Chanel boutiques and Selfridges only
It would be dishonest to pretend this isn't perfect in every way.
4711 Eau de Cologne, £6.49, boots.com
For many, this is the definitive cologne. Born in 1792, its lemon and bergamot scent still smells modern.Thierry Mugler Cologne, £26.35, escentual.com
I've loved this since its launch over a decade ago. Smells like the best Marseille soap, and lasts all day.
Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay, £39, jomalone.co.uk
I adore this very British blend of juicy fruit and wet, slightly sour herbs.
Acqua di Parma, £50, johnlewis.com
An Italian take on cologne: a little woodier, a tad more sexy, but elegant and wearable on both men and women.