Clever new formulas deliver tiny, precise amounts of retinoids, vitamin C and other active ingredients that are gentle on the skin
The downside to skincare’s explosion in popularity over the past decade is skin inflammation from too many products containing too high a concentration of active ingredients. When we know some actives are extremely effective in treating uneven pigmentation, sun damage and wrinkles, there’s a temptation to crank them up to 11 to maximise results. But too much of a good thing can cause irritation, and long-term inflammation causes dullness, sensitivity and, perversely, premature ageing. At least three-quarters of those who approach me with skin problems are unwittingly at war with their faces, metaphorically throwing petrol on a once extinguishable bonfire.
That’s why I’m excited and relieved to witness a new, more responsible approach to actives by brands: microdosing. Yes, like a Silicon Valley exec sucking on a calming pipette of psychedelics, beauty experts are applying minuscule but precise quantities of retinoids, vitamin C and other actives for a gentler, steadier approach that delivers results over time – minus the dramatic flare-ups involving extreme dryness, flaking, scaling, reddening and burning. I’ve been microdosing for well over a year, using Skin + Me, an online dermatology service, for £19.95 a month. The effects have been great, but one needn’t take this prescription route now that over-the-counter microdosing is gathering pace.
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